Jude’s Kitchen: salmon, every way

B.C. salmon is one of this province's top seafood choices, and between tinned and fresh, there are hundreds of ways to prepare it.

salmon in crust

salmon in crust

I may have grown up here in the Okanagan, but I was born on the coast, and I love seafood of all sorts.

I know we’re a little distance from the ocean but with today’s transportation, that really doesn’t account for much. Heck, Jonathon Crofts of Codfathers Seafood Market at Guisachan Village actually drives down to the coast to pick up the first fish of the season quite often, whether it’s halibut or prawns, and rushes it back to Kelowna…

That love of seafood will drive people to all sorts of lengths! The king of seafood has to be our own Pacific wild salmon, and I’ve served and eaten it dozens of ways over the years.

Whether it’s fresh-caught or fresh from the can, there are many ways to serve this delicately-flavoured fish and I’ve tried most of them.

Here are a couple of extra special, but not too complicated ways that will wow the socks off your favourite people.

For more great seafood ideas, including salmon recipes, pick up a copy of my book, Jude’s Kitchen, published by the Okanagan Institute, available wherever books are sold, and a few others besides: including Codfathers, the B.C. Wine Museum, Discovery Wines, Quails’ Gate Estate Winery, Calona Vineyards and Ex Nihilo Vineyards.

I was delighted to learn last week that it has been nominated, in the regional category, for the Taste Canada food writing awards, formerly Cuisine Canada’s Canadian Culinary Book Awards. These will be shortlisted at the beginning of August and the winner announced in the fall. Wish me luck!

Wine choices to pair with salmon can be interesting because contrary to the idea that only whites can be paired with fish, a pinot noir is also a good choice with salmon. We tried the Mission Hill Family Estate Reserve 2010 Viognier, which was luscious with its fresh fruit and honey flavours, but a crisp citrus end that contrasted nicely with the rich fish.

Dianne’s Salmon in Pastry

My sister-in-law Dianne is a great cook so it’s always a treat to go for a visit. This looks divine and tastes even better, and it’s delicious hot or cold. I know, because I had a slice for breakfast the next morning! It’s kind of like the classic Beef Wellington, except with salmon instead of beef.

Topping:

1/4 c. (60 ml) cream cheese

2 green onions

1 garlic clove

2 tbsp. (30 ml) fresh dill

2 tbsp. (30 ml) fresh parsley

1 tsp. (5 ml) lemon zest

1 tbsp. (15 ml) lemon juice

salt and pepper, to taste

1 lb. (454 g) puff pastry

1 lb. (454 g) asparagus

1 3/4 lb. (800 g) skinned salmon filet

salt and pepper, to taste

1 egg, beaten

Pre-heat oven to 425 F.

Prepare the topping by finely mincing the green onions and garlic, the dill, parsley and lemon zest. Soften the cream cheese and beat in the lemon juice, then add the minced ingredients and salt and pepper, to taste.

Lay one sheet of puff pastry on a baking sheet and lay the salmon filet on it, making sure all the little bones have been removed first.

Remove the tips of the asparagus and arrange the stems on the salmon.

Dollop or drizzle the cream cheese mixture over top of the asparagus.

Brush the margin of the pastry with beaten egg and a pastry brush, then lay the second sheet of puff pastry over top, pressing the edges together to seal all around the salmon and asparagus.

If needed, trim the edges, leaving a border of pastry around the salmon, which you can decorate with a fork or your fingers.

Cut a couple of slits in the top to permit the steam to escape, then brush the top with the beaten egg.

Bake until it puffs and is golden brown all over, about 35 minutes.

Let cool for a few minutes before serving.

Serves 6-8.

Salmon Patties with Dill

I know I’ve used a number of different recipes over the years for salmon cakes, but this one is better than all of the others. It’s something that keeps evolving, as all of our cooking does, so I wanted to share my latest, and best evolution of the classic ‘tin of salmon with a spud’ recipe.

When we’re camping, I just ladle spoonfuls of salmon mix into the heated pan of melted butter, push it down with the flipper and we eat uneven-shaped patties instead of round ones. They taste just the same and clean-up is much easier. I don’t bother with the crumbs. You could prepare the mix ahead of time and just take it with you too.

7.5 oz. (213 g) tin salmon

1 medium potato

1/4 c. (60 ml) onion

1/2 c. (125 ml) fresh dill

1 tsp. (5 ml) minced lemon zest

1 tbsp. (15 ml) lemon juice

1 egg

1 tbsp. (15 ml) flour

1/2 tsp. (2 ml) hot sauce

salt and pepper, to taste

fine, dried bread crumbs

drizzle of oil, and pat of butter

Mush salmon into a medium-sized bowl. Don’t neglect the bones as they’re a good source of calcium. Grate potato into the bowl. I don’t peel it first. Mince sweet-flavoured onion like green onions, purple or other sweet-flavoured onions on top. Mince lemon zest and squeeze fresh lemon juice over it.

Beat an egg and add it, along with flour, hot pepper sauce, salt and freshly-ground black pepper, to taste.

Mix everything together well.

Form balls, six or eight and arrange, apart, on a piece of wax paper. Smush each in the centre with your hand and push the edges together to form a patty. Sprinkle fine, dried bread crumbs, such as Panko crumbs over the top.

Heat oil over medium-high heat in a large frypan and add butter, for flavour.

Arrange patties, crumb-side down in the pan. Sprinkle more crumbs on top of each and fry until the underside is brown.

Carefully turn over and continue to cook, over medium heat, until the other side is also nice and brown, a total of 15 to 20 minutes or so.

Serve over fresh or wilted spinach.

Serves 2.

 

 

 

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