A living tapestry of greens, golds, lavenders, and blues stretch as far as the eye can see through an endless valley that is nestled below mountains piercing the sky. The tiniest of wildflowers crouch as close to the ground as they can, forming their own little micro climate to avoid the harsh environment. Colourful fungi, mosses, algae and lichen splash their paint across rocks and boulders left behind by glaciers that retreated some 14,000 years ago. It’s here that numerous glacial rivers wind their way through, netting the land with mirror-like reflections, some with so many small tributaries they seem to spread like a spider web that has no end.
This is the subarctic tundra. This is Alaska’s Denali National Park. This is where the kaleidoscope of colour so fills your senses you are sure the scene before you has been painted by an artist with a penchant for impressionism.
On July 13, 2011, Bob and I stepped out of our truck, walked a few feet off the roadway, and stood on an amazingly thin layer of topsoil that sits over deep beds of ground frozen for thousands of years called permafrost. Each summer this thin layer of topsoil thaws for just a few months to support the over 650 species of flora that grace the slopes and valleys of Denali. When this thaw comes and the ice and snow retreats it’s time for Mother Nature to ramp up the growth cycle; what may take a plant 12 months to accomplish in another part of the world happens here in just three.
This is a world in miniature. Dwarfed trees and shrubs, doll house sized flowers; all joining together to provide food for the wildlife that calls the Park home.
But this is not the Serengeti, wildlife here are challenged with frigid temperatures, endless nights, and the cessation of plant growth that results from the loss of sunlight. Food is scarce, and the extremely short spring, summer and fall gives no time for anything other than food gathering, raising young, and survival.
Denali is alive with life, and is home to more than 160 species of birds and 37 species of mammals. Denali has what locals like to call “the big five”; grizzly bear, Dall sheep, moose, caribou, and gray wolf. Eighty percent of Park visitors see bear, sheep, and caribou; 35 per cent see moose, and only 20 per cent see wolves.
We saw all of “the big five”, and photographed every one!
We also encountered red fox, snowshoe hares, hoary marmots, red squirrels, ground squirrels, pikas, and a porcupine. Many have come home with us inside our cameras, and we will enjoy reviewing these special shots numerous times over.
Yes, we made it!
The trip to Denali National Park has always been on our “bucket list” – you know, something you talk about doing but just never seem to be able accomplish.
Realizing the dream was a wonderful feeling and we were in no way disappointed with the destination.
When we arrived at the RV Park I’d booked us into we found it right at the heart of the Park entrance, and close to all this tiny community had to offer.
This area is called “glitter gulch” by many of the folks who live and work here; aptly named when you see the hustle and bustle that takes place during the few short months of the year when the roads are open and the temperatures mild.
Our RV spot was directly behind a boardwalk with approximately 20 or so little boutiques, restaurants, ice cream and fudge shops, souvenir stores, and tour kiosks; everything an enthusiastic tourist could want. Needless to say I spent far too much time in the ice cream and fudge stores, and by the time we headed for home I was thinking I might need an angry moose to put the run on me so I could get rid of a few extra pounds; that’s if I survived the chase!
The community also has three large and fancy resorts; the kind where folks with an extensive bank account can enjoy their luxury.
As we travel with two Australian Shepherds, we are always making sure there is somewhere close to walk the dogs. This Park was pretty short on that requirement but just a block or so away was a good area for canine relief and exercise. The tough part though was getting over to that area from the RV as a resident red squirrel had produced several little ones this year, and they were everywhere. And I do mean everywhere! These red headed rascals were under vehicles, on RV’s, hiding behind picnic tables and more.
I truly think they thrived on spending every day terrorizing camper’s dogs while their mom and dad were out trying to stock up the larder for winter.
Every time I took our canines out for a walk one of these cheeky youngsters would pop up from the most unexpected places and chatter a few swear words at our dogs.
Brandy would immediately rush to the end of her leash, stand on her hind legs, and stretch out as far as she could towards this offending little creature; all the time whining madly and wagging her two inch stub of a tail at warp speed.
Ali however is a ‘no nonsense’ kind of gal, and would immediately go into “I want to rip your face of mode” and set up to barking like a lunatic.
Of course here we are in the middle of an RV Park where one tries not to be too disturbing to one’s neighbours. But, did you know that the number of biscuits you put into a dogs mouth at one time can definitely have an effect on how much it can bark!
Anyway, a little excitement is good for the heart and gets the old blood pumping. It also helps to get your neighbours up early enough to catch the tour bus that was to take all of us into the heart of this incredible place.
Watch for the next installment of North To Alaska: Destination Denali in an upcoming issue of the Star/Journal.
