We were still many miles from the Yukon and over a week away from arriving in Alaska. Fall colours of varied flora decorated the hillsides along the Stewart-Cassiar Highway (so-called), but animals remained aloof.
After foolishly by-passing a park or two, we discovered lakes, lagoons and rushing streams, and had much-needed breaks from driving by turning into northern B.C.’s Forestry recreation sites and provincial parks even if it wasn’t lunch time. Now where was that elderly fifth wheel which would have let us stay within such beauty overnight?
After watching people who did have RVs relaxing by Meziadin Lake glistening in sunshine, we left Highway 37, passed Bear Glacier and many tall, skinny waterfalls to reach Stewart, B.C. in pouring rain. Soon we were across the international border into Hyder, Alaska watching salmon galore in their spawning rituals, hoping to see a grizzly. A brown one showed up, splashed after its prey and dined. Revisiting that spot several times, we saw only two more bears, one crossing the road in front of us and a crowd of camera-carrying onlookers. At least as dramatic were the sights of T-shaped and Y-shaped ice flows of Salmon Glacier with parallel lines of moraine a few winding miles above Hyder in the alpine. “The Friendliest Ghost Town in Alaska”, claims its sign. The best seafood around was served out of an ancient bus.
Finding the actual lake of Dease Lake, quite a distance north of “town”, was a challenge, and we completely missed the float plane base, familiar to John in his working days. Between mountains, creeks, ups and downs, swampy areas and construction of BC Hydro power line, the drive was never boring. Gas at Bell II cost $1.59.9 a litre – but included free coffee! Further north we explored souvenir shops in Jade City.
Later, I zoomed past a sign saying “Cassiar Gold” without realizing that this was the site of the former asbestos-mining town of Cassiar. For miles after seeing Boyd Lake Provincial Park with brilliant blues and greens indicating changing depths and the lake’s varying “floor-coverings”, dead trees covered the rolling hills, some beetle kill and more burnt.
At last, crossing from B.C. into the Yukon Territory, we arrived at the Alaska Highway -Mile 650, Km 1003. Unfortunately, the welcome wasn’t perfect as we felt totally overcharged for the tiny cabin we stayed in that night immediately after turning west. No worries, we were definitely making progress on our journey to Alaska.
However, having now reached the legendary Alaska Highway, its broad road allowances providing visibility for potentially wandering wildlife, we had driven less than 1/4 of an eventual 8,000 kms. In places we could see the early route from rougher days, but now all is paved, an easy grade with gentle curves. Continuing west after leaving Highway 37, we dipped back into B.C. once before arriving in Whitehorse.
Starting at Teslin, we found a new and worthwhile pursuit: to investigate claims of offerings of the best, biggest, or tastiest cinnamon buns. We are still working on that!
