Despite several solid attempts, the ascent up a difficult and dangerous route on Enderby’s Cliffs has remained uncharted territory.
Until now.
A Coldstream climber and his Canmore friend have claimed rights as the first to conquer Mythologic (a 140-metre cliff facing west towards Highway 97).
Lyle Knight, of Lavington, and Marc Piche, of Canmore, Alta. successfully scaled the icy slope Jan. 10.
In the climbing world, the cliff is ranked WI6 (waterfall ice six), the second most difficult rank given. Cliffs with this ranking require excellent technique and a high level of fitness as the climbers must traverse a vertical climb for the entire pitch, with no rests.
Due to the difficulty of the climb, its location and the fact that few actually know about it, Knight suggests the route has seen few attempts.
“There is a very short window of opportunity most years to climb the route as it is exposed to the afternoon sun,” said Knight, adding that it lies between 850 and 1,000 metres above sea level and with moderate Okanagan temperatures the ice breaks down quickly following a cold snap.
“Therefore, it took lots of monitoring over several years to find the right window, which would be difficult to do it you didn’t live in the area,” said 45-year-old Knight, who has been climbing since he was 15 and, along with Piche, has authored guidebooks, and has been eyeing Mythologic for years.
Armstrong ice climber Rick Cox has been living and climbing in the Okanagan since 1983, and he too has long kept his eye on Mythologic.
“I have made a number of forays into this waterfall over the years, but for various reasons was never able to do this climb,” said Cox.
“This climb stands as a very significant achievement, and had it been done before Lyle’s attempt, the climbing community would know. To accomplish a first ascent of this magnitude, you need the right conditions, personal commitment, physical fitness and a well-honed degree of skill.”
Knight and Piche’s journey started early, leaving Coldstream at 5 a.m. for the long trek in fresh snow to the base. By 9 a.m. they were starring up at the steep, golden-coloured, icy cliff.
“When we first got to the base Marc commented on the ‘other-worldly’ ambience with the big walls, caves and rock pillars split by this tawny dagger that resembled a giant lightning bolt splitting the wall,” described Knight.
The pair tackled their conquest using two 60 metre ropes and 16 ice screws, with photographer Piche documenting the adventure along the way.
“It’s a view like I haven’t experienced on any other ice climb,” said Knight, describing the view as pastoral, overlooking the snowy North Okanagan valley and fields split by the winding, unfrozen Shuswap River and rolling timbered hills in the distance.
“We could hear the cows in the fields below, it was very unique.”
By 2:30 p.m., the guys had conquered the mountain and were back on the ground by 4 p.m.
Following a mountaineering tradition, where the first climbers to make an ascent get to name the route, Knight and Piche picked Mythologic.
“It speaks well to the fact that there’s a 140 metre WI6 ice climb in the North Okanagan which seems a bit mythical,” said Knight.
“Also, the climb is located between the two western Canadian ice climbing centres and may not make it into a guidebook, so the story of the climb will rely on the aural traditions of climbers to keep it alive.”
So far, the story of their journey has quickly travelled throughout the climbing community, even attracting others to brave the icy waterfall now known as Mythologic.
“Two days after we made the first ascent and reported it on www.gravsports-ice.com the climb saw a second ascent by a pair of ice climbers from Kelowna,” said Knight. “Chris Willie, a strong climber from Alberta, had just moved to Kelowna and noticed the climb in early January. He was working his network of ice climbing partners to find someone willing to attempt the first ascent and had even offered to fly partners over from Calgary! Chris contacted me afterwards and I conceded I was grateful I didn’t know about the competition for the route beforehand.”
Knight’s journey is anticipated to be featured in Gripped climbing magazine and he has also shared his experience in the online world.
The husband and father of two encourages all skilled climbers to test their limits with Mythologic.
“It’s truly a world-class climb and has to be experienced firsthand to be believed.”
