So you want to have a garden this year.
While flower beds and veggie plots may still be a half metre under the snow, now is the time to start planning.
In the Cariboo, the growing season is short and it may be early summer before there are many blooms to light up the garden.
That’s where container gardens can be useful because they can be started early and brought indoors during cold weather. They can provide colour and atmosphere early in the season, before outdoor beds get going.
There are a few common routes to go in gathering your bedding plants and the most obvious is to just go and purchase what you need at a plant nursery. Nursery staff can be invaluable in suggesting which plants are suitable for certain growing conditions.
Not all plants are happy with constant exposure to the sun and armed with a little knowledge, a person can fill every space with plants that will thrive.
Another route is to start plants from seed and while gardening centres are good sources of information, seed catalogues and the Internet can also be very useful as well.
When choosing seeds or plants, pay close attention to which hardiness zones they are suited for. Much of the South Cariboo falls within zone 3a and 3b, which relates to areas that see temperature lows to between -34.4 and -40 C.
The zone also gauges the last frost date at May 31, but anyone who has lived here long enough knows that frost is possible every month of the year.
Gardening is like fashion, and Lorraine LeBourdais, from Arrowhead Organic Plants and Herbs nursery at Horse Lake, anticipates a trend this season that will see a lot of pre-made planters that include edible plants, such lettuce, herbs and cherry tomatoes, interspersed with flowers.
One popular hanging basket-type tomato to look for, and one of her favourites, is called Tumbler Ridge.
“It’s wildly productive. Everyone should have at least one Tumbler.”
Because the Cariboo summer is known to be hot and dry, she suggests growing heat and drought resistant plants like geraniums, petunias and gazanias.
“They’re all low maintenance, vigorous and provide lots of colour.”
They also take the cold well, as do pansies, alyssum, lobelia and brachycome.
The rule of thumb with most seeds is to plant them five to seven weeks before the last expected frost date, but planting too early can result in leggy, weak plants that may not thrive later on.
“Don’t rush, because the weather here is so fickle,” warns LeBourdais.
“Also, once you start your seedlings, you are a slave to them. It’s a delicate time and you have to monitor them at all times.”
Plastic flats with clear dome lids are ideal for starting seedlings, and they’re also inexpensive. As a way of being thrifty, she also recommends cutting a four-litre plastic milk jug in half and using the top portion as a lid.
Whatever type of container you choose, fill it with a sterile seed-starting mixture that does not contain soil. This will eliminate the chance of soil-borne bacteria and fungus killing off your precious seedlings.
It’s crucial to read the seed packet to determine what depth to plant your seeds, and keep in mind that some seeds, such as petunias, need light to germinate and they must be just sprinkled on top of the planting mix. Others, like pansies, require complete darkness, and they must be chilled before planting.
Once the seedlings have germinated, it’s time to take off the plastic lid, and when they produce their first set of true leaves, they must be transplanted into larger containers.
Watering can be a bit of an art, and plays a huge role in the success of growing healthy seedlings. Over-watered, soggy soil is a breeding ground for a fungal disease called “damping off,” which kills seedlings.
Damping off can also be a problem for the most diligent of gardeners, and while chemical fungicides are available, LeBourdais has had tremendous luck with worm castings. She mixes her own soil from an old recipe that has been handed down to her. It includes composted manure, which she sterilizes, peat, perlite, lime and worm castings.
Young plants need lots of light for proper growth and a very bright window, florescent tubes or grow lights work best. Florescent lights should be kept from eight to 10 centimetres above the seedlings.
A Christmas light timer can come in handy at this stage of the game, as it can be set up to control the amount of light the plants receive each day, with 16 hours being optimal.
Baby plants need food, but not before the appearance of the first true leaves. This can be a water-soluble 20-20-20 fertilizer, which should be applied at half strength, once per week.
When the plants are big enough and the danger of frost is over, it’s time for them to vacate their indoor homes, but before setting them outside permanently, they must gradually be made accustomed to the outdoors. It’s a process called “hardening off” and it takes up to two weeks.
Start by setting the plants outside for a few hours in a shady spot, sheltered from the wind. Gradually lengthen the time spent outside and slowly introduce them to direct sunlight.
After the process is completed, plants can be put in garden beds or into containers, but you may still have to watch for temperature dips for a while and provide cover for them at night.
If purchasing plants at a nursery, LeBourdais says to look for a vibrant green colour in the plants to ensure that you are buying something that is healthy. She also suggests slipping plants out of their containers to make sure that they are not root-bound.
When your plants are finally tucked away into their beds and containers, it’s time to enjoy their beauty and their bounty. Just remember to give them adequate water, and check them often during hot, dry times. Containers, especially, can lose moisture quickly.
While these tips may be helpful, experience is the best teacher. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different plants and with the design of your planters and gardens, and above all else, take time to appreciate the fruits of your labour.
